Frequently Asked Questions About Roofing Your Home |
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Ford Roofing Company LLC |
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(615)794-3959 |
Professionally Certified by the Following Manufacturers |
Proud Members of the Following Organizations |
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How do I find a reputable contractor? Your choice of a contractor is vital to the success of your roofing project. Select him or her with care, as you would any other professional, like a doctor or lawyer. Get started by using the following methods to select possible candidates: · Referrals are the best way to find a contractor. Ask your friends, relatives, neighbors and business associates if they know anyone that they would recommend. · Job site signs in your neighborhood offer you the opportunity to see a contractor in action. Talk to the homeowner about the quality of his work. · Check with manufacturers like CertainTeed, GAF-Elk, and Owens Corning. They have "look-up" programs, on their web sites, that find factory trained and certified contractors in your area.
Once the candidates have been selected, you should take the time to interview them and discuss the details of your project. Be prepared to ask the questions that will help you determine whether or not this is a reliable professional who will be easy to work with and be able to complete the job to your satisfaction. Here are some questions you should ask in each interview: · Does the company carry insurance? A contractor should carry comprehensive liability and workers' compensation insurance to protect you in the event of an accident on your property. If a worker is injured on your property, you might be held liable for all costs unless the employee is covered by workers' compensation insurance. Ask the contractor to have their insurer send you current certificates of general liability and workers' compensation coverage. Don't forget that companies who carry the proper insurance and follow the insurer's guidelines for safety will have higher job overhead costs. These expenses could be the cause of price variations between contractors who follow the standards and those who ignore them. Roofers who do not carry insurance will most likely be cheaper to hire as they do not have large insurance premiums to pay, but hiring them brings substantial financial risk. · Is the company a licensed or credentialed contractor? Check with your state and local licensing authorities to determine the requirements for a contractor to operate in their jurisdiction. Be aware that a business license is a tax requirement only and is not directly relevant to the contractor's competence. Several roofing manufacturers offer a variety of programs, to the professional contractor, that establish their credentials as a knowledgeable roofing company. Homeowners can view these credentials as another indicator of the contractor's degree of knowledge, professionalism, and dedication to the roofing trade. · How long has the company been in business? Needless to say, longer is better. Less than three years may signal an unstable business or one low on the learning curve. On the other hand, everybody has to start sometime. References will be helpful to double check any business, and are especially important when dealing with a new business. · What is the company's workmanship warranty? A good contractor will warrant his workmanship for a period of one year or more. The length of the warranty is less important than the intent and ability of the roofer to stand behind his work. Again, this is best evaluated using customer referrals. Ask previous customers the following questions: Was the contractor responsive when asked for information and changes? Did the contractor act as if he cared about the customer's interest? Would you call the company trustworthy? · What is the company's track record for solving customer complaints? Try to find out how your contractor handles problems when they do arise. Ask the contractor if he has ever lost a job related court case. Ask if the contractor's license has ever been suspended and why. You can also talk to the appropriate authorities, such as the Better Business Bureau and licensing departments, to find out if any complaints have been filed against the contractors you have interviewed and how those complaints were handled. Many contractors, in business for any length of time, have been involved in a dispute. The key is how the dispute was resolved. |
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Why are my bids so different in price? As you evaluate bids from your prospective contractors, you might want to consider the findings of a Consumer Reports study on home improvements. In a survey of nearly 12,000 homeowners that obtained multiple estimates, the 40% that accepted the lowest bid were less satisfied overall with their projects than those who were willing to pay more for the job*. · General Liability & Workers' Compensation Insurance — A contractor should carry comprehensive liability and workers' compensation insurance to protect you in the event of an accident on your property. If a worker is injured on your property, you might be held liable for all costs unless the employee is covered by workers’ compensation insurance. Companies who carry the proper insurance and follow the insurer’s guidelines for safety will have higher job overhead costs. These expenses could be the cause of price variations between contractors who follow the standards and those who ignore them. Roofers who do not carry insurance will most likely be cheaper to hire as they do not have large insurance premiums to pay, but hiring them brings substantial financial risk. · The Complete Roof System — Roofing manufacturers will not warrant their products unless they are applied as part of a complete roof system. A complete roof system includes the roof surface (shingles, metal, slate, etc.), wood decking, underlayment (felt), moisture barriers, flashing, ventilation, and hip/ridge capping. All parts of the roof system must be considered and included if not currently adequate or reusable. Not all contractors will include underlayment and moisture barriers in there bids. Some will not flash properly or will use 20 year hip/ridge cap shingles on a 30, 40, or 50 year roof. A contractor who cuts corners in these areas will offer a much lower bid, but the end product may not protect your home and may not be warranted by the manufacturer. · Workmanship — Studies indicate that more than two–thirds of the problems that people experience with their new roofs are due to the contractor’s workmanship–not the roofing materials. A contractor that stands behind his workmanship must take the time to train his employees in the proper installation techniques for each type of material used. This training increases the overhead costs that are associated with your new roof. Consequently, the employees of contractors that provide lower bids may not have the necessary knowledge and training to properly install your roof, resulting in poor water shedding performance and future repair bills. |
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What are the components of a roof system? Most people think of a new roof as just banging up some shingles. But savvy homeowners know better! Today, effective roofing relies on advanced material technology and an integrated systems approach to protect your biggest asset–your home. |
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· Home Design — The design of your home also plays a part in the cost of your new roof. The difficulty of installing your roof increases with steeper pitch, number of hips, length of valleys and ridge, quantity of flashing, and number of dormers and roof penetrations. Therefore, two homes of equal size may have drastically different roof bids because of the roof design. |
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Make sure that your final choice of a contractor is based on the "sum of all parts" – including professionalism, an understanding of your vision for the project, and a compatible personality – instead of on a single factor such as price. |
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What are the different kinds of shingles? Single Types · 3–Tab Shingles — Three–tab shingles are the roofing industry’s standard, consisting of two layers of asphalt around a fiberglass mat core covered with ceramic mineral granules, notched into three integrated pieces, or tabs. (Available with 20-year & 25-year warranties.) · Dimensional/Architectural Shingles — Dimensional/Architectural shingles are created by bonding or laminating two asphalt shingles together, giving them a distinct three-dimensional appearance similar to that of wood shakes. Laminates are considered more attractive, they are heavier in weight, and they have longer life spans. (Available with 30-year, 40-year, & lifetime warranties.) · Designer Shingles — Most shingle manufacturers produce a line of designer shingles that offer the homeowner a variety of more sophisticated and unique design options. Typically, designer shingles are heavy weight multi-layer laminates that provide deeper shadow lines, richer texture, and simulate more expensive roofing materials like slate. (Available with lifetime warranties.) |
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What is flashing? Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to prevent seepage of water into a building around any intersection or projection in a roof such as vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys. Aluminum metal flashing should be minimum .019” thick. |
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Why do I need underlayment (felt)? Asphalt saturated felt used beneath roofing to provide additional protection for the deck. The underlayment also prolongs shingle life by protecting them from excess heat and moisture inside the attic. |
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What is hip and ridge capping? Shingles used to cover the horizontal or inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. |
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Does a metal roof cost more than a shingle roof? Yes. Initially the cost of a metal roof can be substantially more than a premium asphalt roof. This is due to two factors– the materials are more expensive and it takes more skilled application for installation. But, overall it will save you money in the long run versus other roofing products, because once you’ve installed a metal roof, chances are you’ll never have to re–roof your home again. |
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Why should I purchase a metal roof? In recent years, metal roofing has become the fastest growing segment of the roof market. Durability and long lasting beauty make metal roofing a superior choice for residential applications. Listed below are a few of the advantages of metal roofing: · Will not rot, crack, split, break, burn or blow off · Engineered for strength from 100% metal – coated steel, copper, zinc, or aluminum · Special coatings process resists dirt and environmental aging · Lightweight: less than 1/3 the weight of asphalt · Environmentally friendly – made from up to 50% recycled material and are 100% recyclable · Energy efficient – reflects the sun’s heat so your attic and living areas will stay cooler · Many styles, colors and finishes to choose from · Increases your home’s value |
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What is the best type of metal roof? Should you decide to purchase a metal roof, stay with concealed fastener roofing. Metal roofs with exposed fasteners are not intended for residential applications, and can leak badly once the fasteners have deteriorated from exposure to the elements. With concealed fastener roofs, water is diverted away from the fasteners so that deterioration over time will not be an issue. |
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What is the slope or pitch of a roof? The slope or pitch of a roof is the degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to a run of 12 inches. For example, a roof that rises 4 inches per foot of horizontal length is described as having a 4/12 slope. A slope that rises 18 inches for every foot has an 18/12 roof slope. A general rule: The smaller the first number, the lower the roof pitch. |
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Can I use shingles on any slope or pitch? No. The normal application range for shingles is between slopes of 4/12 and 21/12. On slopes at or below 2/12, shingles should not be used. Shingles can be used on slopes between 2/12 and 4/12, but only if two layers of underlayment or a waterproof moisture barrier is used beneath the shingles. On slopes greater than 21/12, special techniques for sealing the shingles must be employed because steep slopes create a higher potential for shingle blow–off and/or slippage. |
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What type of roofing is recommended for low sloped areas? With low slopes, water can back–flow under shingles, and the area can be difficult to ventilate or insulate effectively. Only products like EPDM (rubber), SBS (modified bitumen), or Duro-Last (vinyl single ply) specially designed for low slope applications, should be used. |
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Should I tear off my old roof or just roof over it? Complete removal of the existing roof system is mandatory if it contains moisture, or if the additional roof layer exceeds safe load design, or if local codes require that the existing roof be removed. Most local codes will only allow two layers of 3-tab shingles. |
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How long should my roof last? Just as the human body ages and changes appearance over the years, so too will your roof. Due to the severity of the roof environment, even a one-year-old roof may look different from a roof that was just installed. |
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During the "Mid-Life" period, aging continues at a much slower rate. The cracking or granule loss still occurs but does not increase at a noticeable rate. Only after this long period of "Mid-Life" does the aging process begin to accelerate once again as the shingles enter their "Declining Years." It’s during this period, the last 20% of the predicted life, that homeowners normally think about replacing their roofs. |
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Can my roof be serviced? Yes. During the last 20% of the predicted roof life (years 16-20 for a 20 year shingle), homeowners normally think about replacing their roofs. Should you discover a leak in your roof prior to this time, don't panic. Most of the problems that could lead to a leak, during the first 80% of the roof’s life, can be repaired at a fraction of the cost of a new roof. |
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Could my roof be causing higher energy bills? Yes. Attic ventilation might seem like a minor consideration, but when done properly, it can extend the life of your attic and roof structure; and save you hundreds of dollars in repair and energy costs. In the summer, hot, moist air makes a home more difficult to cool and can result in added energy costs if inadequately ventilated. |
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What are the warning signs that my roof needs attention? Depicted below are symptoms that indicate your roof may need to be serviced or replaced. Click on any problem to learn what's causing it and how to fix it. If your roof is in the last 20% of its expected life, you should probably think about replacing the roof instead of repairing it. |
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Algae Growth Causes · Algae growth causes a dark discoloration on roofs. The algae are usually brown to black in color which results in a streaked, dirty looking rooftop. It can be mistaken for soot, dirt, or tree droppings, which typically produce only localized discoloration. It's caused by the growth of air-borne algae which deposits spores on your roof. The good news is that algae growth does not affect the service life of your roofing material. It occurs most often in warm, humid climates such as the Southeast. |
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Recommendations
· Discoloration of roofs caused by algae is difficult to remove, but may be lightened by spraying a diluted solution of chlorine bleach, trisodium phosphate, and water onto the roof. Solutions range from one cup TSP, one gallon bleach and four gallons of water, to one cup TSP and 2.5 gallons each of bleach and water. This solution can then be rinsed from the roof in 10 to 15 minutes. Do not scrub. Scrubbing will loosen and remove shingle granules. After spraying be sure to thoroughly flush the roof and the greenery around the home (grass, bushes and shrubs) with water. The effectiveness of this type of cleaning may only be temporary, and the discoloration may recur. High pressure washing is not recommended due to the possibility of removing shingle granules, thereby shortening the life of the Roofing System. · For a more permanent solution, re-roof with algae-resistant shingles. They are specifically designed to inhibit most algae growth for extended periods of time and are usually backed by some type of manufacturer's warranty. |
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Buckling Causes · Wrinkled or improperly applied underlayment/felt · New shingles applied over old, rough shingles · Roof deck movement from absorbed moisture · Poor roof ventilation |
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Recommendations
· Remove the shingles that are affected. Cut the wrinkle in the felt or smooth the original layer of shingles and replace the new shingles. · Add ventilation to the attic space. According to most building codes, you need one square foot of vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor space. The minimum is one square foot for every 300 square feet of attic floor space, if the space is balanced between the ridge and intake vents. A balanced ventilation system means that about 50 percent of the required ventilating area should be provided by vents located in the upper portion of your attic to serve as exhaust vents, with the remaining 50 percent provided by eave vents for intake. |
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Curling Causes · High nails · Improper number of fasteners per shingle · Lack of ventilation |
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Recommendations
· Check location and number of fasteners to insure that the shingles are installed per the manufacturers instructions. If high nails are present, use a hammer to make the nail head flush with the top of the shingle. · Add ventilation to the attic space. According to most building codes, you need one square foot of vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor space. The minimum is one square foot for every 300 square feet of attic floor space, if the space is balanced between the ridge and intake vents. A balanced ventilation system means that about 50 percent of the required ventilating area should be provided by vents located in the upper portion of your attic to serve as exhaust vents, with the remaining 50 percent provided by eave vents for intake. |
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Damaged Flashing Causes · Improper installation on a new roof · Drying and cracking on an old roof · Dented or bent by severe weather or extreme temperatures · Settling of the structure |
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Recommendations
· In most cases it is only necessary to remove and replace the flashing and shingles around the damaged area. |
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Missing Granules Causes · Normally a certain number of granules will be loose, especially after application. These granules are called "riders" and are a normal result of the manufacturing process. Granule loss does not affect the service life of the shingles unless the loss is severe enough to expose the asphalt or fiberglass mat. |
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Recommendations
· On aging shingles, missing granules indicate a need for replacement. · Following a hail storm, a sudden increase in granule loss is an indicator of possible hail damage. |
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Missing Shingles Causes · Improper fastening · Exposure to high winds |
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Recommendations
· Replace shingles which have completely blown off. · Remove and replace shingles which have broken tabs. · For shingles with tabs blowing up and down, hand seal the shingles with an asphalt plastic cement, commonly referred to as flashing cement. This roofing cement must comply with ASTM D4586 -- Type I or Type II which is the standard specifically for asbestos-free asphalt plastic roof cement. To hand seal, lift each tab of a 3-tab shingle and apply two spots of the cement under each tab. Each spot should be approximately the size of a quarter and placed 1" to 2" from each end of the tab and near the bottom. Laminated shingles require 4 spots of cement per shingle. After application, press the tab down firmly to start the bond. Be careful not to apply the cement too close to the bottom of the tab. This causes the cement to squeeze out when the tab is pressed down. |
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Ceiling Spots Causes · Spots are caused by leaks in the roof. |
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Recommendations
· Check attic for leaks in deck. · Check chimney and vents for cracks in flashing. · Check rafters for leaks that "travel" away from original source. · Check eaves for water backing up from ice dams. · Check roof for damaged or missing shingles. |
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Rotting Causes · Rotting is caused by absorption of moisture by the mat at the core of the shingle. This is a common problem with organic-based shingles. |
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Recommendations
· Replace with fiberglass mat shingles. |
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Blistering Causes · Moisture in the shingle |
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Recommendations
· If the blisters break open revealing the asphalt, the affected shingles should be replaced. |
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Is ventilation really important? Yes. Attic ventilation might seem like a minor consideration, but when done properly, it can extend the life of your attic and roof structure; and save you hundreds of dollars in repair and energy costs. |
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The only way to combat these problems is with good attic ventilation. The wind blowing over the exhaust vent, near the top of your roof, creates a negative pressure that draws the warmer air out of the attic. Replacement air enters through the under eave or soffit vents, bathes the underside of the roof while absorbing heat and moisture, and again exits through the exhaust. Even with no wind, the natural convection action of rising warm air maintains a continuous airflow along the underside of the roof. It’s a system that works year round with no moving parts or energy consumption. |
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How can I tell if I need more ventilation? To decide if your home is adequately ventilated, go up into your attic and take a look around. A sure sign of poor ventilation is an unbearably hot attic in the summer. Another thing to look for is evidence of moisture, such as mold, mildew, rusted nail heads, damp or compressed insulation or wood rot. |
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What is the best type of ventilation? There are a number of variables to consider when selecting the ventilation system that's going to be most effective for your home. Review the types below to decide what is best for you: |
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· Ridge Vents — Ridge vents are positioned along the entire length of the roof peak. In addition to being excellent exhaust vents, ridge vents blend in with the roof line, making a more attractive home. Years of research has proven that ridge vents with external baffles, combined with under eave venting, is the most efficient and effective system you can install. |
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· Wind Turbines or Whirlybirds — Turbine vents protrude from the roof and use a series of specially shaped vanes to catch the wind and allow the turbine to spin, pulling air out of the attic. Although not as effective as ridge vents, turbine vents provide a low-cost alternative in areas where consistent wind speeds of at least 5 mph are typical. Without that minimal wind speed, turbine vents act essentially as roof louvers. |
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· Roof Louvers — Roof louvers are covered openings that allow air to escape the attic. Most attics require several of these vents to be installed to properly ventilate the attic. They should be placed evenly, in line, across one side of the roof. Roof louvers only provide a small, confined area of movement, which means air does not move along the entire under side of the roof deck. And because multiple holes must be put in the roof, most people try to avoid roof louvers. |
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· Power Ventilators — A power ventilator is a motor-driven fan that is controlled by a thermostat. It works quickly to pull air out of the attic. A humidistat is also required if you want to control winter humidity problems. |
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· Gable Louvers — Gable louvers are installed in the gable end of the attic. The higher these vents are placed, the more effective they become as exhaust vents. Gable louvers are not a preferred method of ventilating an attic because they provide only limited air flow across the underside of the roof deck, resulting in "hot spots." They are also dependent on wind direction. |
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· Intake Vents — Intake vents are installed in the soffit or under eave (overhang) section of the house. They are critical to the overall performance of the attic ventilation system. Intake vents feed the exhaust vent with cool, dry air at the lowest point in the attic so that the warm, moist air can be pushed out at the top of the roof. An effective attic ventilation system should include a balance of intake and exhaust vents. |
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Remember to avoid using a combination of different types of exhaust vents, such as power vents with ridge vents. In this case, competing vents pull air from each other, instead of from the soffit vents. This will short-circuit your ventilation system and render it ineffective. |
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Is a 30 year shingle really warranted for 30 years? Yes. However, after a designated period of time (usually 5 years) the product is warranted at a pro-rated rate where you will only be reimbursed for the depreciated value of the product covered. In other words, with a standard limited warranty, the reimbursement for a 30 year shingle during the 25th year on your home may be very small. |
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Why should I buy an additional warranty? A new roof is a big investment, typically involving thousands of your hard-earned dollars and lasting 25, 30, 50 years or more. As with any big investment, knowing in advance what your warranty covers could save you thousands in the event that problems arise with your roof. |
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